San Isidro



San Isidro was canonized on May 15, 1622 for miraculously making water rise to rescue his son from a well, along with a handful of other wondrous deeds. Hence he became Madrid's patron saint and, simultaneously, the "laborer/peasant saint" after his profession.

For more about San Isidro, you can visit the church of the same name on calle Toledo - built over the site where the miracle purportedly took place - about two blocks from the Plaza Mayor. The church holds a small museum with exhibits including the famous well along with a small collection of archaeological findings excavated in the region of Madrid.

San Isidro Traditions

Like most in Spain, this Madrid festival has largely lost its religious character. Instead, the city government uses San Isidro as a platform to represent the best of Madrid culture, old and new, from bullfights to break dancing. You'll enjoy a full calendar of concerts, plays, parades, fairs and special art exhibits, most free of charge.

Weekend partying is centered day and night around the Plaza de las Vistillas, Plaza de San Andrés and Puente de Segovia in the Austrias neighborhood, near the Plaza Mayor. At night, bars set up shop on the street, or "chiringuitos." Good luck elbowing your way through the hordes to get a "mini," the Spanish term for a huge plastic cup of mojito, beer, cocktail or mixed drink.

El Chotis*, Chulapos, Castizos & Cocido

The chotis* is Madrid's typical music and dance, though strangely Scottish in origen. It became popular in the 19th century and was largely danced in the working class neighborhoods of Lavapiés and El Rastro. Those who lived in these areas did not have much money, but they dressed and danced brightly as if they did. Known as "majos" and "majas," or "chulapos" and "chulapas" (a variation of "chulo," which means cool or cocky), Goya immortalized these proud, attractive madrileños in numerous paintings which you can see at the Prado Museum.

"Castizo" is an adjective that describes anything typical of Madrid. Thus the "castizo" madrileños of today dress up like chulapos/as and dance the chotis or head down to the San Isidro Hermitage on the banks of the Manzanares River to eat cocido, a local kind of stew.

Gigantes & Cabezudos

Gigants (people on stilts) with "cabezudos" (big, satirical papier mache heads) parade around the city center, usually on the first Saturday afternoon of San Isidro.

Barquillos

You can buy barquillos all year round in front of the Palacio Real, but they are especially prevalent during San Isidro. Barquillos are wafers topped with chocolate or whipped cream to your liking. The vendors, called "barquilleros" dress like "chulapos" with a traditional vest and cap and carry around a "wheel of fortune" where you can gamble for more wafers.

Source: whatmadrid.com


*The Chotis is a traditional music and dance which originated in Scotland. It later become a French and a German tradition. It became popular in Spain in the XIX century and at first it was known as Polca Alemana. The word Chotis comes from the German word Schottisch. It gradually became a symbol of Madrid and it was largely danced in the working class neighbourhoods. It is considered the most typical dance of the city since the XIX century and it is danced in all the traditional festivals, especially during San Isidro’s Day. The Chotis is usually danced with the accompaniment of an organillo. It is danced in pairs, cheek to cheek. While dancing the woman turns around the man. Women usually wear the traditional mantón de Manila and men usually wear a hat which is called parpusa.

Goya immortalized the madrileños dancing Chotis in several paintings which are part of Prado Museum collection.

Comments

Marta said…
I like San Isidro very much because it could take you to another time. With a little of imagination and if you have read the novels of Galdós and Pío Baroja, you could feel the atmosphere of the early twentieth century in Lavapiés and even the same smells, a hundred years later.
I went to Gran Vía on saturday night and there was a crowd. In Las Vistillas it was impossible to be: it's the same as another parties we have talked about.
peekandpack said…
OK! You kown more about San Isidro than me. Thank you for the explain.
See you
Graham said…
I have only been to the San Isidro festivities once and that was many years ago. I didn't see any "chotis" being performed or any traditinal costume. I just remember a huge "botellon" and many "minis".

Marta:

I like San Isidro very much because it TAKES you to another time. With a little of imagination and if you have read the novels of Galdós and Pío Baroja, you CAN feel the atmosphere....
I went to Gran Vía on Saturday night and IT WAS CROWDED. It was impossible to be IN LAS VISTILLAS: it's the same as OTHER PARTIES we have talked about.

Susana:

Thank you for the EXPLANATION.

You are welcome! :-)