A row over manchego

Cheesed off: Spain's manchego makers vow to fight EU name ruling

EU says Mexican producers can use manchego name to describe their cheaper, cow’s milk cheese

Makers and lovers of manchego, Spain’s famous sheep’s milk cheese, have vowed to fight an EU decision allowing Mexican producers to carry on using the same name to describe their cheaper, cow’s milk cheese.

A battle over ownership of the name had delayed a major trade deal between the EU and Mexico for months, but agreement was finally reached over the weekend in a deal that will allow 99% of goods to be traded between Mexico and the EU on a tariff-free basis.

However the agreement on manchego cheese, while giving the Spanish variant some extra protections against copy-cats when sold in Mexico, will allow both types of cheese to share the same name and sit on the same shelves in that country.

The European commissioner for agriculture, Phil Hogan, insisted careful packaging would make the origins of the two cheeses clear. “The specific labelling provisions will ensure that there is no confusion for the consumer as for the origin and composition of the product and any reference to the original Spanish products will not be allowed [on the Mexican product’s packaging],” he told reporters in Brussels.

Hogan continued: “I think that farmers in Mexico in relation to manchego cheese will be happy; I think the Spaniards will be happy too.”

However, Spanish cheesemakers are far from thrilled. They had been seeking exclusive use of the word manchego in Mexico, arguing it should be used only to describe their hard cheese. The cheese has enjoyed the exclusive use of the brand in the EU since 1982.

“We will use any and all legal means at our disposal to appeal this decision,” said Martín Esteso, a spokesman for Spain’s largest farmers’ union, Asaja.

“The whole thing is just nonsense: they can’t use our name for a cheese that is not pure manchego cheese made from the milk of manchega ewes.”

Esteso, whose family have been producing the cheese for four generations, said the word manchego should only be used to describe something with links to the central Spanish region of La Mancha - “like Don Quixote or Sancho Panza”.

It was all about quality and clarity, he argued. While Spanish manchego sells for around $15/kg, its Mexican namesake fetches around half that and is typically used to stuff quesadillas.

“It’s not about consumers in Mexico getting confused, it’s about consumers all around the world getting confused between their cow’s milk cheese and our ewe’s milk cheese because both will have the same name.”

Ismael Álvarez de Toledo, the president of the Spanish Brotherhood of the Manchego Cheese, said the commissioner had put “other international interests” ahead of those of food producers within the EU and pointed out that manchego was a demonym.

“The word manchego, like the word Scottish, Welsh, Riojan or Extremaduran, refers to a place,” he said. “A manchego can be a man from La Mancha or a cheese from La Mancha. It can’t refer to a man from Mexico or a cow from Mexico or a cheese from Mexico.”

If the EU did not defend the products of its own producers, he added, “what’s to stop someone from Guatemala or Paraguay deciding to call their drink scotch whisky or their wine Rioja or Bordeaux or champagne?”

Comments

Sir Joseph said…
Hi Graham,



I don´t finish understanding this argument because if you have a manchego cheese made from the milk of manchega ews on the left hand and a manchego cheese made from the milk of manchega cow on the right hand you can´t confuse them. What is more, one manchego is from Spain and other manchego is from Mexico, where is the problem? When you go to buy to the market you don´t say I want cheese please, but you say I want a kind and a brand of cheese please. Cheese made from sheep, cow or goat. It´s no the same thing as Scottish or Rioja. The Spanish said that “It´s not about consumers in Mexico getting confuse, it´s about consumers all around the world getting confused between their cow´s milk cheese and our ewe´s milk cheese because both will have the same name”. I follow without understanding them, because consumers around the world are not going to confuse a cow with a ewe.



It´s possible that people from Mancha want to all over the world know La Mancha and its products. This one can be the reason by what they want that everybody knows the manchego word and nobody confuses it with other places. Anyway, in my opinion, people know country and after, its regions. The first is Spain and after La Mancha.



C u
Graham said…
Hi José,

You leave me, not for the first time, a little confused. Let me see if I can make sense of it all ...


I have ended up not understanding this argument because if you have a manchego cheese made from the milk of manchega ewes on the left hand and a manchego cheese made from the milk of manchega cow on the right hand, you can´t confuse them.

What is more, one manchego is from Spain and the other manchego is from Mexico, where is the problem? When you go to buy at the market you don´t say I want cheese please, you say which kind and brand of cheese you want. Cheese made from sheep, cow or goat. It´s not the same thing as Scottish or Rioja.

The Spanish said that it was not about consumers in Mexico getting confused, it was about consumers all around the world getting confused between their cow´s milk cheese and our ewe´s milk cheese because both would have the same name”. I follow without understanding them, because consumers around the world are not going to confuse a cow with a ewe.

It´s possible that people from Mancha want the whole world to know La Mancha and its products. This must be the reason why they want everybody to know the word "manchego" so that nobody confuses it with other places.

Anyway, in my opinion, people find about a country first and then its regions - first Spain and then La Mancha.